Merhaba! That’s hello or welcome in Turkish. Yep! I just got
back from a fabulous week in Istanbul with my 4 soul sisters. We try and plan a
trip every year and we've been on 3 so far :)
Istanbul, a fascinating city that excites all the senses
with what it has to offer. Amongst the beautiful architecture of the mosques,
churches, palaces and bazaars that form the city skyline, are the most charming
and inviting cafes and restaurants. Let me share a bit of my experience of
places to eat at, in and around this amazing city.
Istiklal street is like the Oxford street of Istanbul. The main street and by-lanes are quaintly lined with an
array of high street shops, bars, restaurants and food carts and are bustling with tourists and locals alike that were there to eat, shop and just take in a bit of the city.
There, in the
middle of the street on the corner of a by-lane was eSmer. A restaurant,
although humble in appearance, served up some good, clean, flavourful food. It
had a simple but fun atmosphere with pumping pop music and a team of happy and
very efficient staff that were eager to please. As we were a very hungry five
girls, we quickly grabbed our menus which had a mix of Italian and Turkish
items and a few Italian-Turkish options and in no time at all off went our
orders and here’s what I chose; Mixed meadballs with salad and fries. Yes,
meadballs. Not meatballs, meadballs. I loved it. Five juicy pieces of grilled
beef patties served with fries, barbeque sauce and a side salad with a tangy
lime dressing. Simple, clean and tasty fast food, Turkish style, done.
A trip to the crowded and very inciting and exciting 541
year old Grand Bazaar is a must. Filled with carpets, jewellery, pottery and a whole
lot of trinkets that you have to spend a ton of energy bargaining for, left us all famished and ready for a good
lunch. Nestled in between the shops was a local favourite, Havulzu. I learnt
later that Havulzu is the Turkish word for a fountain. An oasis in a sea of
shops. A simple dhaba-style restaurant that claimed to serve Ottoman-Turkish
food that was displayed in a bain-marie behind a glass counter. You had to
choose the dish you wanted from the counter and it was plated, garnished and
brought up to the table after you were seated. The atmosphere was chaotic,
customers shouting out orders in all languages and waiters that could speak a
few words of English trying to make sense of what was happening. Unsure of what
we should order, we decided to get a few dishes to share and here is what we
got; A serve of a beef lasagne type dish that had a crusty potato and cheese
topping served with a squiggle of a spicy tomato-ketchup like sauce, a plate of
meat doner that was sliced off the vertical spit onto a plate served with some
soggy fries and yoghurt, a mixed mince and vegetable stew and a plate of
artichokes. All in all the food was exotic looking but mediocre in taste.
Filling but not as flavourful as we had imagined, a place that we wouldn't plan
to return to, but worth a one-time visit if you're in the area and hungry.
The local Gozleme was a dish I had been waiting to try.
Available in upmarket restaurants and sold on the streets by local hawkers this
dish is a Roti type bread, usually freshly made by Turkish women at the venue
over an open griddle and stuffed with mince, spinach or cheese. A Turkish paratha of sorts. A mixed spinach
and cheese gozleme later I was happy as Larry. Perfectly cooked and seasoned
wilted spinach, blended with chunks of crumbly white Turkish feta, stuffed into a
pancake like roti. A simple but flavourful dish that’s a must have if your ever
in Turkey.
A trip to the Chiragan Palace is highly recommended. Especially
for those that want to experience a bit of luxury. The former Ottoman palace is
now a collection of the five star Kempinski hotel chain. Situated on the shores
of the Bosphorus this beautiful palace was home to a small hotel-owned bar/café
overlooking the courtyard that lead to the water. This little bar that offered
a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, teas, coffees and Turkish
nargile (shisha), served up one of the most delicious hot chocolates I have
ever had. Sticks of creamy chocolate were brought in a tall glass mug. The
waitress proceeded to pour a small cup of hot frothed milk that just melted the
fresh chocolate into the milk to create a little mug of heaven. As the weather
was cold and I was freezing, this went down a real treat and for a few minutes
I forgot all about the beauty around me and lost myself to the hot cup of melted
milk chocolate. Mmmmm!
Ortakoy is a charming little suburb situated on the shores
of the Bosphorus, filled with quaint little cafes, restaurants, food stalls and
an open market all overlooking the water. Party lovers must visit the chic but
expensive night clubs like Reina and Angelique that stay open past 4am for some
great music and cocktails.
Our last main meal was eaten at one of the restaurants in
the area that was highly recommended and one that I would highly recommend to
anyone visiting Istanbul. The House Café. A charismatic, buzzing little hotel
cum restaurant, with funky décor, cool lighting and a team of busy and super
efficient staff. The café had an extensive menu with a mix of continental and Turkish
dishes that were so well described, it just made you drool. After ordering our
special lemonades, a popular cold sweet lemon water, flavoured with mint leaves,
we were ready to get our mains; Pide and Meatballs, Steak and Mash, Seafood
Salad, Sea Bass Risotto and a Pumpkin and Goat cheese Risotto. The dishes were
brought out together, perfectly portioned and garnished, ready to be devoured.
Each one was more delicious than the next. Spoonful’s of rich, flavourful,
cheesy risotto followed by flawlessly cooked succulent bites of meat/fish,
teamed with crunchy salad leaves and creamy mashed potatoes. Each mouthful more
fulfilling than the next. Just delicious! We scraped our plates clean and ended
the night with a piece of rich chocolate cake to share. A sweet end to a really
sweet dinner!
While we are on the topic of sweets and desserts, Istanbul
is filled with places that satisfy the sweetest tooth. Visit Hafiz Mustafa, a
chain of stores that flaunts the local Turkish sweets like: Baklava, thin
layers of puffed pastry filled with chopped nuts and sweetmeats and drizzled
with sugar syrup with a hint of rose and orange blossom; Halva, a bar with a distinctive
crumbly texture made with tahina (sesame paste), flour and honey and often
served at the end of a meal with tea or coffee; Turkish Delight, gooey exotic
flavoured jujubes dusted with icing sugar. The sweets were displayed in every
colour, shape and flavour. Pistachio, almonds, rose, hazelnuts, pink, red,
green, yellow, round, square, triangular…I could go on! Each one more ‘delightful’
than the next.
My final recommendation
is a place that you just have to visit! A small patisserie tucked away in one
of the Istiklal by-lanes, Inci. This little bakery just lures you in. It had
the most mouth-watering baked goods on display. From cakes to breads to tarts
to savoury rolls, you name it, they had it. The most delicious item that had
been freshly made in the kitchen below, were small plate-fulls of profiteroles
that had been drowned in thick chocolate sauce…ooh la la! The best part was
that as we walked in, little portions of profiteroles were ready and waiting for
us, as if the smiling men behind the counter knew what we were there for. We
picked up our plates, sat down on the cute little inviting tables and dug into
our little gooey balls of soft, sweet choux pastry that just oozed fresh cream
and that had been dowsed in a coat of thick, velvet chocolate. Every bite was
bliss! Sigh!
Back to the real world and as I sift through the photos that
I have and go over the few notes I managed to scribble down while on my trip, I
realise that what I have shared is just a snap shot of the sights and flavours that
make up the exciting city of Istanbul. One really has to experience it first
hand to get an actual taste of what it’s all about.
On that note I bid you
adieu and hope that when your back you can share some of your own experiences
with me.
Şerefe (Cheers)!